Our Friend Ali Hartman in Morocco!
June 25th, 2008As’Salem Aleykum Everyone!
It has been a week since we returned from our adventures in Morocco and our general euphoria (not to mention tummy troubles!) are just beginning to subside. We had an amazing, amazing time and learned so much in the process. I have done a brief recap of our trip with each place in blue and bold (for your convenience) and included some links to on-line photo albums (for your enjoyment).
Andrew, Dave and I began our trip in Essaouira, a lovely and calm seaside town. It was the perfect introduction to Morocco. We stayed in a well cared for Riad next to the ocean and decorated in true Moroccan style. The home was owned and operated by a lively and irreverent Zimbabwean woman named Sue, along with a team of hardworking local ladies. We had breakfast on the terrace, lunch at the sea port, and dinner at great traditional Moroccan restaurants. We went to the beach where the boys searched for a soccer game, but found fighting camels instead. I chose to forgo the soccer/camel search and instead used the afternoon to relax in the warmth of the African sun. Our 3 days there were well spent and full of funny moments and powerful encounters. We didn’t really want to leave, but new that bigger things (and Sarah!) were waiting for us…
After 3 hours in a rather warm bus, we made it to Marrakech, where we would meet a luggage-less Sarah and a world of newness. We were lucky enough to stay right outside of the Medina (the old city) and in the lap of luxury at Le Meridien. It was a lovely hotel and a real oasis from the bustling and at point aggressive life in the city. Marrakech was wild. We arrived on a Saturday and went straight to Djemma el Fna, the epicenter of life in Marrakech, the largest square in North Africa, and a feast for the eyes and, in some people’s opinions, the stomach. There were thousands of people, scooters, and stalls. Hundreds of entertainers from snack charmers to dancers to jugglers – a circus without the big top! It was all a bit overwhelming, especially for Sarah and I as we had to protect our bodies and our booties from unwanted advances. The next day was much more calm and enjoyable as the madness of the market was much tamer and thus manageable. We walked through the souks (markets) and saw a beautiful Koranic school, the Marrakech museum, gardens, natural healers, the King’s old latrines and the Royal Palace. It was all so new and very beautiful (minus the latrines, that was a bunch of crap. no pun intended). To celebrate our being alive and surving the city of secrets, we decided to go Le Comptoir for dinner. It was a beautiful restaurant in the Nouvelle Ville promising an exciting meal that began with belly dancing and ended with very full bellies.
On day three in Marrakech, we began our trek to the desert by meeting our guide Essalah and piling our bags and ourselves into his white unmarked 4×4. We hit the road and learned within minutes that driving in Morocco was exhilarating (aka scary as hell). Lucky for us, Essalah had a laminated prayer for safety hanging from the rear view mirror…and quick reactions! We got out of Marrakech and were struck by the landscape, elevation, and constant changes around us. In the 4 days our little 4×4 would get us over the middle and high atlas mountains, through Dade’s gorge and Todra gorge, to Ait Bennhaddou, the Valley of the Rose, Erg Chebbi (the desert) and finally up to Fez. We trekked through an Oasis, rode camels through the desert, explored tiny villages, and off roaded to almond trees, olive groves, and fields of wheat and wild poppies. We smoked Hooka. Went swimming. Stayed in a hotel without electricity. Looked at the stars. Watched the sun rise. Slept in a Nomad village. Got caught in a sand storm. Learned. So much. Laughed. And laughed some more. We were lucky to have done the trek, as it allowed us to really see the country and get from Marrakech to Fez experiencing everything in between.
Fez was our favorite place – everything from our Riad, Dar Dmana, to the ancient city itself was out of this world. Afternoon tea, five course meals, the friendliest staff, city guides, and cooking classes made our experience within the Riad indulgent, relaxing and worry-free. The medina in Fez is literally ancient and one can get easily lost with the narrow streets, 1,000 dead-ends, and winding roads. If Marrakech is the city of secrets, then Fez is the city of surprises. Around every corner and behind every door you have the chance to say “Wow” — or as our guide Hassam said “BIG WOW!.” A huge garden, a beautiful mosaic, an exotic tannery, an enticing spice market, or a stunning mosque seemed to be around every corner. We spent our days in the many markets, exploring new street food stalls, making friends, and learning as much as we could. We took a cooking class, which involved killing our own chicken. It was an intense experience on all levels, but one that gave us a new appreciation for our food (and an even deeper disdain for many of the practices that make up American farming). The cooking class also allowed us to spend the afternoon with some of the most lovely women we had ever met working hard to make Moroccan salads of peppers and eggplants and tomatoes; a chicken, olive and lemon tagine; and a fruit salad like none we had ever tasted. We loved Fez. We laughed and walked incessantly while we there, only stopping for the occasional ice cream cone or orange Fanta.
The people were so friendly and welcoming. Over the course of the two weeks, we learned about everything from food to family life, from women’s social roles to Islam because of the openness and intelligence of those around us. Our discussions about religion, in particular, were incredibly powerful and left us all more hopeful for the world and its future.
All in all, the country is beautiful. It is also in a really fascinating transition, fighting to hold on to its traditions, while opening itself rapidly to the outside world and the west because of its desire for tourism. The King is well-liked and invested in his country. He’s young and is approaching his rule with business savvy (he went to Harvard) and contemporary realism – creating tourism goals, visiting everywhere, overturning laws that were oppressive toward women.
I hope you enjoy the photos. If you have any questions, send them my way…
Ali’s Morocco Pictures — Picasa Album #1
Ali’s Morocco Pictures — Picasa Album #2
Love,
Ali
